{"id":489,"date":"2017-07-19T18:36:00","date_gmt":"2017-07-19T18:36:00","guid":{"rendered":""},"modified":"2025-10-28T09:28:47","modified_gmt":"2025-10-28T09:28:47","slug":"staking-out-florences-finest-bistecca-alla-fiorentina","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/romancandletours.com\/blog\/2017\/07\/19\/staking-out-florences-finest-bistecca-alla-fiorentina\/","title":{"rendered":"STAKING OUT FLORENCE\u2019S FINEST BISTECCA ALLA FIORENTINA"},"content":{"rendered":"
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Staking Out Florence\u2019s Finest Bistecca Alla Fiorentina<\/span><\/h2>\n
\"migliore<\/a><\/div>\n

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There\u2019s an old Tuscan proverb that perfectly captures Florence\u2019s culinary culture: \u201c<\/span>chi non carneggia, non festeggia<\/i>\u201d\u2014\u201cthose who don\u2019t eat meat don\u2019t know how to celebrate.\u201d Bold, red-blooded, and brash\u2014especially at a time when vegetarianism is steadily on the up\u2014it speaks volumes of a city in which the main specialties are <\/span>lampredotto<\/i>(the fourth layer of a cow\u2019s stomach, typically served in a sandwich) and <\/span>bistecca<\/i> (a mouthwatering mound of rare T-bone steak). But the potency of the proverb comes from how it conceptually links the two: meat feasting and festivities have always gone hand in hand, and have always been the preserve of special occasions.<\/span><\/span><\/div>\n<\/div>\n

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Historically speaking, meat eating, though an integral part of our diets, used to be limited on the basis of availability. In Italy, it was only after World War II that people started to eat meat (or rather steak) in any significant quantity. This was partly owing to the country\u2019s rugged landscape\u2014unsuitable for cattle grazing unlike the vast plains of Argentina, the American South and other areas renowned for the quality of their beef. And it was partly owing to financial factors; relative poverty, especially in the South of Italy, preventing people from adopting a red meat diet. That was, at least, until Italy\u2019s economic boom of the 1950s and 60s.<\/span><\/div>\n

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The boom brought about exponential growth in capital and consumption. And although cars are the most enduring symbol of the era, carne<\/i>didn\u2019t do too badly either\u2014particularly the Bistecca alla Fiorentina<\/i>. The steak comes the Chianina\u2014a strong contender for the world\u2019s most revered cattle outside India. They\u2019re big beasts, with mature bulls reaching up to 5\u201d11 and castrated oxen up to 6\u201d7. They\u2019re also historically well attested across the regions of Tuscany, Lazio and Umbria. All the way back in the 1st<\/sup> century AD, the Roman author and agriculturalist Columella described these Umbrian cattle as being \u201cvastos et albos<\/i>\u201d (huge and white). Two thousand years later the description still stands. <\/span><\/div>\n

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For centuries Chianina oxen were put to agricultural use because of their size and strength. Then with the industrialization of Italian agriculture, which reached an apex in the 1970s, they became redundant for this purpose. Since then they\u2019ve been bred exclusively for their meat. And their quality hasn\u2019t gone unnoticed: China, Russia, and the US are just three of the countries that import frozen Chianina semen and embryos. Lovely. <\/span><\/span><\/div>\n
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A brief history of the Bistecca alla Fiorentina<\/i><\/span><\/b><\/h3>\n\n\n\n\n
\"Donetto,<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Donetto, the world\u2019s heaviest Chianina bull (1740 kg) in 1955. Wikipedia Commons<\/span><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n
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Etymologically, the Italian <\/span>bistecca<\/i> derives from the English \u201cbeef steak\u201d, and its usage can be traced back to an act of largesse from 23 March 1565. The story goes that during the wedding celebrations of his daughter Isabella, the Duke of Florence decided to roast an entire ox in the middle of Piazza San Lorenzo and dole it out to the populace. A passing group of English knights saw what was happening and, doing the nation proud in their stereotypically British appreciation for the brisket, shouted \u201cbeef-steak! beef-steak!\u201d And alas a legend was born.<\/span><\/span><\/div>\n

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The bistecca<\/i> fared well (better at least than the Chianina that produced it) throughout the late 20th<\/sup>century. That is until the period between April 2001 and December 2005. In the wake of the outbreak of Mad Cow Disease, the EU banned the sale of the Bistecca alla Fiorentina<\/i>, prohibiting cuts from cows over 12 months old (the Fiorentina<\/i>comes from cows of around 18 months) and which had the bone still attached. The Italians however\u2014ever able to interpret laws as mere guidelines\u2014improvised. Either they continued to sell cuts without the bone, or\u2014to customers they trusted\u2014they just disregarded the law altogether and sold it as it came.<\/span><\/div>\n
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How it comes<\/span><\/b><\/h3>\n
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So what should you expect from this world-renowned slice of steak? Don\u2019t expect to be asked how you want your steak cooked. The Bistecca alla Fiorentina <\/i>comes just one way \u2013 rare, bloody, and delicious. Asking for it well done wouldn\u2019t just risk earning the enmity of your of your waiter, it would also ruin the meat which\u2014if cooked for too long\u2014becomes as tough as leather. <\/span><\/span><\/div>\n
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You typically order your steak by the kilogram and pay anywhere from 35 \u2013 50 euros per kilo. Don\u2019t think you need any sauce. A sprinkle of salt and a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil on your plate is more than enough. And keep the sides simple: roast potatoes (or chips), saut\u00e9ed spinach, or white cannellini beans. <\/span><\/span><\/div>\n
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Regardless of whether you\u2019re a carnivore or not, there\u2019s a seemingly unlimited range of options when <\/span>dining in Florence<\/span><\/b><\/a>. But for the meat eaters among you, don\u2019t pass up the opportunity to chew your way through a steak or two during your time here. Want to know where to get Florence\u2019s finest fillet? Let us at <\/span>Roman Candle Tours<\/span><\/b><\/a> take you through the best the city has to offer.  <\/span><\/span><\/div>\n
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Where to go for the best Bistecca alla Fiorentina<\/i><\/span><\/b><\/h3>\n

I\u2019Tuscani 3, Via Dante Alighieri 18r<\/span><\/b><\/h3>\n
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Photo credit: Tripadvisor<\/span><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n
I\u2019Tuscani 3<\/b><\/a>is tucked away on a narrow street just off one of Florence\u2019s more characterful piazzas between the Duomo and the Piazza della Signoria.  Seemingly small from the outside, it\u2019s TARDIS-like from within, spanning two floors of bustle, chatter and the alluring smell of cooking meat. I went there with some friends from Texas who, coming from a landscape populated almost exclusively by cattle, know a thing or two about red meat. They agreed it was hands down the best steak they\u2019d ever eaten. <\/span><\/div>\n
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Our waiter was a young Sicilian. He was completely rushed off his feet; his face the flush of an uncooked Rib eye as he attended all the tables on our floor single-handedly. But in spite of this he was really friendly\u2014not a given in Florentine restaurants\u2014although he did point blank refuse to accept our initial order of the mixed grill. Our decision, he informed us, was wrong. \u201cYou\u2019ve come to a steakhouse, you\u2019re mad not to get the steak,\u201d he said, sounding almost hurt.  <\/span><\/div>\n
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Such was the size of our starter that it nearly finished us off. Local Tuscan meats (supposedly cured; decisively dead), cheeses, chutneys, crostini<\/i>, and, to top if off, a thick tomato soup served in a basket of thin, crunchy bread. Having cleared our plates, we sat back, sipped our wine and waited for the main event. And when it arrived we weren\u2019t disappointed. <\/span><\/div>\n
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He brought us each a T-bone steak roughly the size of our heads. They were beautifully presented, resting upon a bed of lettuce, served with potatoes and grilled vegetables. And they tasted even better: juicy, melt in your mouth tender, kind of like the best steak in the world really\u2026<\/span><\/div>\n
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Trattoria Osteria Da Que\u2019 Ganzi, Via Ghibellina 70<\/span><\/b><\/h3>\n
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Photo credit: Tripadvisor<\/div>\n<\/div>\n
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I\u2019ve been coming to Da Que Ganzi<\/b><\/a> for years, so much so that I\u2019m on first name terms with the owner. It\u2019s my first port of call when introducing someone new to the city, partly because of the quality of the food, partly because of the consistency of said quality, and partly because I\u2019m an incorrigible creature of habit. <\/span><\/div>\n
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Their website<\/b><\/a>might be just about the cheesiest thing you\u2019ve ever seen (seriously, just click on it) but the restaurant itself is rather more rustic and understated. They\u2019re open six days a week for lunch 12:00 \u2013 2:30 p.m. and dinner 7:00 \u2013 11.30 p.m. (closed on Tuesdays). And I\u2019m going to go out on a whim here and say you don\u2019t have to book in advance. I\u2019ve never had a problem getting a table by just walking in. Then again, I may single-handedly be keeping them in business\u2026<\/span><\/div>\n
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The owner, Domenico, goes out of his way to recommend the right wine to go with your meal, although I feel I\u2019ve increasingly disappointed him in recent months by consistently going for the house red\u2026 And the variety and versatility of their menu\u2014with its exquisite starters, seafood, meats and pasta dishes\u2014keeps him on top of his game. <\/span><\/div>\n
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I\u2019d recommend starting off with the tagliere \u201cdei Ganzi\u201d<\/i> to share before moving on to the bistecca<\/i>. Sharing is caring when it comes to the Bistecca alla Fiorentina<\/i>. And I say this not just because of their size, but because there\u2019s something about feasting on a chunk of red meat with someone else that runs deep in our anthropological makeup.  But if nobody\u2019s willing to go twos with you don\u2019t panic. Da Que Ganzi also offers the smaller tagliata di manzo ai carboni<\/i> (sliced beef cooked on coals) for one or filetto di manzo ai carboni<\/i> (fillet steak cooked on coals). Don\u2019t miss out on their dolci<\/i> either. They\u2019re molto buoni<\/i>.<\/span><\/div>\n
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Trattoria Mario, Via Rosina 2r<\/span><\/b><\/h3>\n
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Photo credit: Tripadvisor<\/div>\n<\/div>\n
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Mario\u2019s <\/b>is almost as much a part of Florence\u2019s cultural heritage as David and the Duomo<\/b><\/a>. Hidden away just out of sight of the Mercato Centrale<\/i>(another foodie heaven well worth the visit) Mario\u2019s doesn\u2019t look like much from the outside; its windows and door plastered in review snippets, black and white photo clippings and a generous helping of Fiorentina FC memorabilia. But ask any Florentine where you can find the best steak in the city (excluding establishments owned by friends or family) and chances are they\u2019ll point you here. <\/span><\/div>\n
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Owned by the Colzi family for three generations, Mario\u2019s is a restaurant where tradition reigns supreme: a point emphasized in a video<\/b><\/a> of almost Spielbergian length made to celebrate its 60th<\/sup>anniversary. There\u2019s no question their pi\u00e8ce de r\u00e9sistance is the Bistecca alla Fiorentina<\/i>. But it\u2019s by no means the only dish they do exceptionally well. <\/span><\/div>\n
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Every Wednesday they serve up braciola<\/i>(pan-fried meat), and Friday is fish day; all produce arriving fresh on the day from Mercato Centrale. Just bear in mind that a series of commandments have grown up around the cult of Mario\u2019s. Thou shalt not ask for coffee, ketchup, mayonnaise, or Wi-Fi. And make sure to avoid the deadliest sin of all: uttering the name of Fiorentina FC\u2019s archrival, Juventus.  <\/span><\/div>\n
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Trattoria Mario is only open for lunch (12:00 \u2013 3:30 p.m.) and is closed on Sundays. They don\u2019t accept credit cards or take reservations, so it\u2019s definitely worth arriving 10 minutes early. It\u2019s intimate too; whichever of its confined, crowded couple of floors you\u2019re assigned to, expect to share a table with others. Just remember there\u2019s a reason why, in spite of the restaurant featuring in almost every guidebook about the city, locals and tourists alike continue to flock to Trattoria Mario for a spot of pranzo<\/i>.<\/span><\/div>\n
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Ristorante Buca Mario, Piazza degli Ottaviani 16r<\/span><\/b><\/h3>\n
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Photo credit: Tripadvisor<\/div>\n<\/div>\n
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\u201c\u00a1Un insult a la pobreza!<\/i>\u201d is how my Mexican friend\u2019s mum described the enormous chunk of Bistecca alla Fiorentina<\/i> being lugged to a nearby table when she went to Buca Mario a few months back. What she\u2019d seen was the latter of the four options you have when ordering the steak: the one for four people. You can also order it for one, two, or three. But, as already mentioned, remember that the Bistecca alla Fiorentina<\/i> really is for sharing. <\/span><\/div>\n
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Buca Mario<\/b><\/a> has been going since 1886. It\u2019s only open in the evenings (7:00 \u2013 10:00 p.m.) and you\u2019d do well to book in advance (by calling +39 055 214179) as it gets very busy, especially during high season. Despite how busy they get, the service is always phenomenal: personal, accommodating, and attentive. That\u2019s to be expected, though. Buca Mario sits on the pricey side of Florence\u2019s eateries, able to ride off its long-established reputation. And it\u2019s a reputation that\u2019s earned the restaurant a loyal Italian clientele, though you\u2019ll notice they\u2019re often seated away from the increasing influx of tourists. <\/span><\/div>\n
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Aside from the bistecche<\/i>, Buca Mario also excels in a few other signature dishes: the taglierini al tartufo<\/i> (a pasta somewhere between spaghetti and tagliatelle smothered in truffle sauce), the costoline alla griglia<\/i> (grilled lamb ribs), and the cappellacci<\/i>(pasta stuffed with ricotta cheese and spinach). And if by the end of your meal you\u2019re not pieno da scoppiare<\/i>\u2014\u201cfull to bursting\u201d\u2014give their forest fruits crumble a go. It\u2019s simply divine. <\/span>

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<\/span> Written by: Alex Meddings <\/a><\/span>
If you liked this article, read also “WHERE TO FIND THE BEST GELATO IN FLORENCE<\/a>“<\/span><\/p>\n

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Staking Out Florence\u2019s Finest Bistecca Alla Fiorentina There\u2019s an old Tuscan proverb that perfectly captures Florence\u2019s culinary culture: \u201cchi non carneggia, non festeggia\u201d\u2014\u201cthose who don\u2019t eat meat don\u2019t know how to celebrate.\u201d Bold, red-blooded,\u2026<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":11,"featured_media":672,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[871],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-489","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-florence"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/romancandletours.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/489","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/romancandletours.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/romancandletours.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/romancandletours.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/11"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/romancandletours.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=489"}],"version-history":[{"count":3,"href":"https:\/\/romancandletours.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/489\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":4591,"href":"https:\/\/romancandletours.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/489\/revisions\/4591"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/romancandletours.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/672"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/romancandletours.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=489"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/romancandletours.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=489"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/romancandletours.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=489"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}